Celebrating National Foundation Day w/sweet Condrieu
Restaurant Tani in Gaienmae (Tokyo)
Tasted den 11 februari 2015 by StefanAkiko
INTRODUCTION
What a fine evening it was!
FLIGHT 1 - F********, AT HOME
How much do YOU enjoy opening a long kept treasure, only to discover that in February, it is already the 5th cork tainted wine you poir down the sink?
2003 Château Marojallia Flawed
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
F***************.........
Corked, but not beyond recognition.
Behind the veil of disgust and utter undrinkability (wife refused even the smallest sip) a great wine can be anticipated. Tannic structure and concentrated immensity of intensity R Us.
...but not for us.
So, I stand steadfast: will NEVER ever again buy naturemuppy cork ever. Exception made for those who take full responsibility of what I get.
This wine didn't make it to the restaurant tonight.
FLIGHT 2 - FOIS GRAS
Quel mariage!
1999 Christophe Pichon Condrieu Moelleux 93 Points
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Condrieu
The balance surprised me, as it was struck between entities I never before even thought balanceable: between the low acids, the perfumey fragrance and the medium sweetness.
Enjoying this wine was like watching elves dance in the Midsummer night. Light, etheral but with a mind-changing presence. (Seeing is believing...) Neither megaaction nor in-your-face entertainment, simply a light, yet, stunning balance act.
Very light yellow colour.
More appley aromas than even apple juice. Refined with perfumey white flowers and youthful fruit.
In the mouth it is elegant like a garden sprite, youthful and happy like even Peter Pan. Refined with a deceptive easy-going style that has so much more going on. Non-boasting greatness in a glass. Humble yet earth moving. (Shovel.) The appley aromas come back with the subdued perfumes and ends with an slightly bitter earthy mini-twist.
There's nothing in this etheral (!) wine that suggests it is 16 yrs of age. Nothing. Not a hint. The mind boggles.
Why don't all Viognier growers make this style of wine instead of dry, eldrely-lady-perfumey wines? This is fabulously amazing. Stunning! Cracking! Bonkers!
Married the fois-gras 'bigtime' and left us all saddened when the btl was emptied.
Wife: 91p and a smile
Only btl, wish I had a case.
At fantastic Restaurant Tani (Tokyo) with great friends.
FLIGHT 3 - VEGGIES, FISH AND BEEF
All went well
There was also one Syrah from Southern France that I can't tell from the blurry pic I took of it.
2009 Domaine les Aphillanthes Côtes du Rhône Villages Vieilles Vignes 94 Points
France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Villages
This was clearly the red wine of the night! Humble origin and humble label, but ambitious enough to purchase DRC's most sought after barrels for raising the wine. It's certainly a wine that blinded, will challenge the greatest Grenache wines around.
Colour and nose are still young and rich.
In the mouth, this is a formidable example of a great Grenache based CdP: Rich, opulent, caught early in its life, long lived and full of fabulous aspects. But, wait! It doesn't say "CdP" on the label?!?
And, actually, you can get a case of this for any single btl of the more up-beat cousins of CdP. Great, isn't it?
In it are: restrained expressions of grilled meats, raspberries, licorice, dark fruits, red berries, white flowers, la garrigue, crushed rock, tar and herbs. All superbly balanced in a looong expression with still M+ tannins and M acids. Warmly friendly and made for grilled meats. Full bodied, but more towards ballerina than towards a weight lifter.
In short: A fantastic wine in the de luxe CdP category.
Married sauteed white asparagus, fois gras on rice and rosemary infused veal steak.
Wife: 94p
One btl still to go out of 6. (Wish we'd been more restrained.)
At fantastic Restaurant Tani (Tokyo) with great friends.
2007 Domaine Saint-Damien Gigondas Vieilles Vignes 86 Points
France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Gigondas
Underdelivered a quaint juice that in no way corresponds to WA's 95+ points. (...nor my expectations.)
Very fine structure, but overly stewed fruits taint the composition and reduce it in to "just" a very good wine. Expecting much more, knowing the label etc, I was very disappointed. Very :-(
3 more btls to go, next one next year. Expectation gauge reset to 'normal'.
Wife: 88p
At fantastic Restaurant Tani (Tokyo) with great friends.
FLIGHT 4 - CHEEZUS IS BORN AGAIN
The Rivesaltes absolutely married the cheezus. I had no wine left when we arrived at the crêpes...
1986 M. Chapoutier Rivesaltes 96 Points
France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Rivesaltes
With humble gratitude, I enjoyed this magnificent offering. This is still just a baby. Maybe an old baby, but still a baby it is. Should be kept resting for at least another 30 years. Tonight's best sweet performance. (Beats 'Ballroom Blitz' with more than quality.)
Rich, enticing, semi-sweet and amazingly balanced Grenache experience that is both breath taking and awesome. Nose screams of youthful grapes and colour is with only the slightest hint of beginning maturity.
In the mouth, it sits tight with some M tannins and M acids. The fruit is rich, opulent and raspberry-oriented with Grenache everywhere. Slight Et-OH heat that is very well integrated in the semi-sweet equation.
Wife: happy!
Married the cheese plate (for dessert, my glass was empty.)
At amazing Restaurant Tani (Tokyo) with some very good friends and their families.
CLOSING
Quite an enjoyable evening. People were more enjoyable than the wine. As always! The Parker-haussed Gigondas under-performed, Aphillantes performed well, sweet Condrieu surprised and Rivesaltes stole the show.
...food was also great!