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SV: Bordeaux "En Primeur" 2009
Tim Atkin har lagt upp sin rapport på http://www.timatkin.com/bordeaux09.pdf
Tim Atkin har lagt upp sin rapport på http://www.timatkin.com/bordeaux09.pdf
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chambertin skrev:Få se sedan vad det blir mer men Rieussec, de Fargues, Cos, Gruaud-Larose, Pontet-Canet och några andra finns på min lista.
Jo jag såg det tyvärr. Hade hoppats mer på inflytande från eBob-kollegan Neal Martin:Allaboda skrev:Cos lär du få slanta upp ordentligt för efter Parkers bedömning:
'The 2009 Cos d’Estournel is one of the greatest young wines I have ever tasted ... in the world! (98-100)'
Reverse Entropy: Bordeaux AC & Satellite ‘09
A-Z of Primeur
Y…is for YES!
This powerful three-letter word races through my head whenever I chance upon a wine that is worthy of the euphoric affirmative. The first question I always ask when sampling a wine is: is it a “yes” or a “no”. Quite simple. Much can flow from that fundamental question. Sometimes you stumble upon a strong YES! i.e. one that demands capital letters and an exclamation mark. Wines that provoked a YES! in 2009 include: Latour, Lafite-Rothschild, Ausone, L’Eglise-Clinet amongst others. Very occasionally you experience the “orgasmic YES!!!” which demands three exclamation marks and maybe a cigarette to calm down afterwards. Lafleur elicited an orgasmic YES!!!
Of course, as a wine critic, you have to conceal the YES! and the orgasmic YES!!! from the winemaker. I may have a look of utter disinterest, I may be reticent, but inside, my head is screaming: “For f—k sake, that was amazing, I just wanna’ jump around this room and kiss the winemaker hard on the lips…even Jean-Hubert Delon…but…but…I must maintain this stoic façade. Next contestant please…”
Z…is for zebra.
There are always esoteric members of the alphabet that pose a challenge. Z? Zzzz…for a boring wine. Zeal…how one should approach en primeur. Zimbabwe…as far as I am aware, there were no attendees from this African country, although I am sure the UGC can find one from somewhere. Zero…the number of points I would like to have given some of those over-ripe Saint Emilions. Zyxomma…I did not spot one in Bordeaux. Zooplankton…a shoal were denied entry to the Pauillac UGC as they had not pre-registered.
Then of course…zebra! Why there is one at hanging behind you in the tasting room of a First Growth. Just look over your shoulder next time.
Final Words (For Now)
And so we arrive at our final stop. I hope you have enjoyed your journey through the 2009 vintage as much as I had tasting and writing about it. I will imminently be re-examining some of them in the UK now that merchants have cajoled châteaux into attending Primeur ’09 tastings for their clients. Good thing too in my book: let the punters get their tonsils around the wines before parting with their hard-earned dosh.
By now, I am sure you have read dozens of primeur reports. For this writer, a primeur report should be more than just a “list of favourites”. It ought to attempt some understanding of the wines in the context of the vagaries of a growing season, all at a regrettably premature juncture. It should describe the sentiment surrounding the vintage; the arguments it may foment (in particular for the more controversial wines) and postulate what the wines might taste like when one takes into account the élevage and previous vintages. Beyond that, I hope it has been entertaining and that you have enjoyed the humour and the photographs that have accompanied each article. I only had one week to compose the entire series, but I have done my best.
Certainly this year, I felt that there was a zeal for wine writers to be first with the news and to taste as many wines as physically possible. This sets a dangerous precedent, for the samples demand patience on the part of its evaluator, to settle in the glass, to overcome its nerves in front of the examiner. I would ask whether journalists’ priority was to write the best, more accurate report possible or whether they just wanted to be the first? In your marathon tasting, did the last wine receive as much attention as the first?
Looking back over the 500+ wines, the 2009 is a great vintage, but it does not merit the sobriquet as “vintage of the century”. It is a vintage that highlights where Bordeaux stands at the moment, both the good and the bad. Of course, we have to see how châteaux set their prices and the reaction from the markets, in particular the Far East, although I think their interest for primeur will focus on just the top twenty names. We will find out in the coming weeks.
This is just the first snapshot and I look forward to taking more through these wines’ infancy, their teenage years, adulthood and who knows, maybe even old age. It will be intriguing to see how these comparatively high alcohol wines evolve, whether they will match the quality of the 1982, 2000 and 2005? Wine-Journal continues to re-appraise Bordeaux through their arc of their lives, so you know where to look for in bottle assessments, 10-year on retrospectives and verticals.
For now, it is time to wrap up the report. The wines are slowly being released and meanwhile, the vines have woken from their dormancy and are busy preparing for the next vintage: 2010. You know, I saw the way those vines were budding…I think it could be the vintage of the century.
Wine-Journal Recommends: Chateau Thieuley Blanc, Chateau Marjosse, Chateau Saint Genes, Chateau Thieuley Reserve Francis Courselle, Chateau Lugagnac, Chateau Croix Mouton, Chateau Bolaire, Chateau L’Embrun
2005 och 2006 kom 1 Cru ut i juli, 2003 och 2004 i juni så det kommer nog dröja ett tag med 09orna....Mmm skrev:Tar det inte ovanligt lång tid för cru classé vinerna att komma till försäljning? 2008rna kom ju t.o.m ut innan Parker bedömde dem i slutet av april 2009. Hade man varit på hugget då hade man varit en glad man idag (1500 spänn för Lafite - innan den potentiella 100 poängaren kom ut). Än så länge är det mest kranskommuner och notoriska underpresterare på primörsidorna.
Undrar vad prislyftet kommer att bli på Poyferré... 2008:an såldes för 270 DKK, det lär inte räcka med 30% prishöjning där.
Champagner släpps på ett annat sätt, men jag tycker utgången är den samma, ruin! ;DElvis skrev:Skönt att inte prestigechampagnerna släpps på det här sättet. Jag har en känsla av att jag skulle bli ruinerad.
Jag tror att Parker och kompani skulle ha lite svårt att prova basvinerna i Champagne i Mars året efter skörden.Elvis skrev:Skönt att inte prestigechampagnerna släpps på det här sättet. Jag har en känsla av att jag skulle bli ruinerad.
chambertin skrev:
Per Stade skrev:Så länge det finns samlare som har för mycket pengar
Hi Jimmy,
Yes everything is well with me, I hope with you also.
Some of them have started with their second wines, like Pagodes de Cos: far too expensive at 36.00 e, Alter Ego at 34.00 € (excellent sales because the quality is outstanding), Echo de Lynch Bages at 21.60 € (Lynch Bages is undoubtedly THE strongest brand of Bordeaux).
We are still waiting for the big names…….. . It is a rather long and slow campaign……. . Normally it should be more active next week.