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Wine day in Katsunuma
Japan
Tasted den 20 juli 2014 by
StefanAkiko
INTRODUCTION
A full day of wine exploration in Katsunuma, arguably the center of Japanese wine production. After getting off the bus in semi-rural Katsunuma, we were kindly taken by car to WAIN NO OKA. The man is a grower of peach and, when we returned in the late afternoon to buy some of his peaches and say thankyou for his kindness in taking us to WAIN NO OKA in his car, he told us about his own wine making. Unfortunately all sold out to his "fans". We hope to be able to score some of his Koshu next year!
FLIGHT 1 - WAIN NO OKA (5 NOTES)
＊Bild från där man provar vita viner.
In the cellars of WAIN NO OKA you pay a small fee, get a tastevin and can taste as many of the wines on display as you wish. We were generally disappointed with the poor quality of the reds. We focused Merlot this time, next time we will probably focus Muscat Bailey A instead.
The white ones were on the other hand, rich, well made and in the 'very good' bracket. We focused wines made from the Koshu grape. We will fo for Koshu also next time.
Because of the complicated matter of walking around without tasting tables, most wines were not written about. Moste reds were too acidic and thin or tasted like slightly sweet grape juice. For the whites, I tasted around in order to get a firm idea of the Koshu grape. Because of Life's time restraint, I don't add the following wines on CT:
2013 Jyunihara Merlot, 75p.
Unbalanced, watery, immature berries with tart acids.
2013 Yasuki Hagihara, Yasumasa Merlot, 80p.
Ok wine. Sprawling acids, has a compelling quality in the raw wood used here. Nothing to long for though, but would go well with grilled meat.
2013 Miwakubo Merlot, 85p.
This is a very good medium bodied REAL wine with pronounced acids. Could possibly grow in to a man.
2012 Gomibudoshu Merlot, 87p.
Finally! Good tannins creating a fine structure with the slightly thin fruit and balanced acids. Abundant yet unintegrated roasted oak here. Plus point: Has the future for it. Minus point: Has that slight sweetness that I never long for in Cali Merlots...
2012 Soruyu Premium Merlot and CS, 70p.
Swedish BiB meets American oak. Slightly sweet, taste of grape juice. Easy drinking. Easy avoidance.
2012 Yasuki Hagihara, Syrah, 84p.
Almost very good. Has good varietal character with a good dollop of spicy milk chocolate and very fine intensity. However, also the slightly sweet grape juice feeling with no spine (no tannic structure).
- 2008 Marufuji Merlot Chariot d'Or, 78 Points
Japan, Chūbu, Yamanashi, Katsunuma
Serves you the unpleasant aromas of foul grapes. It's a pity, because the wine's components are fully integrated with mature notes...
- 2009 Marufuji Winery Rubaiyat Rouge R, 82 Points
Japan, Chūbu, Yamanashi, Katsunuma
Towards Bojo in style. Light touch, red berries galore with strawberries in top. Fine acids and pure wine. No notes of age or ageing.
Not our taste.
- 2009 Marufuji Rubaiyat Rouge Barrel Aged, 88 Points
Japan, Chūbu, Yamanashi, Katsunuma
What a huge step up the quality ladder from the un-oaked version. Has richness, a great structure with its M+ tannins and M+ acids underlining the fruit. Some complexity and with upside to be delivered when cellaring for some 5 years.
- 2013 Katsunuma Jozo Koshu, 87 Points
Japan, Chūbu, Yamanashi, Katsunuma
Summery fruity white with an intense concentration and the trade mark Koshu herbal-spicy character towards chervil. Amazing today, can probably develop well for at least another 20 years...
- 2013 Haramo Koshu Vintage, 82 Points
Japan, Chūbu, Yamanashi, Katsunuma
Summery fruity bagatelle. Some concentration lifts it above 80p. Perfect for sipping on a hot day. Even if we can easily imagine better wines for that purpouse.
FLIGHT 2 - CHATEAU MERCIAN WINERY TOUR TASTING (3 NOTES)
In a very good locale, tasting tables, great tour guide, fabulous presentation and good selection of wine.
Rosé, yoh... We can live without.
Their Muscat Bailey A was well priced and enough interesting to make us get 3 btls from two vintages.
- 2012 Château Mercian Koshu Katsunuma Sur Lie, 80 Points
Japan, Chūgoku, Yamaguchi
Almost transparent.
Large, aromatic nose with nashi pear and yellow apples. Also of recent fermentation.
In the mouth this is correct, but small. Acids M+++ with small fruit and lacking a little in concentration. Has earthy finish and only very small hints of chervil.
This was today's thinnest Koshu out of 20+. Poor QPR.
- 2013 Château Mercian Momoiro, 77 Points
Japan, Chūbu, Yamanashi
Light pink colour.
Nose of red jelly candy, strawberries, yell-o, summer berries.
In the mouth it surprises with a tannic structure. Some sweetness.
This really isn't our cup of tea...
- 2011 Château Mercian Muscat Bailey A Kuninaka Chi Iki, 88 Points
Japan, Chūbu, Yamanashi
Light red.
Voluminous nose with attractive aromas of REAL wine that has seen oak.
On the palate, this is a rich, immensely intense wine with a medium body. Elegant and powerful. Tannins are M and Acids M++. A long, very delicious finish where the oak is courting the fruit in sinful ways. Also notes of caramel and cherry candy.
FLIGHT 3 - AT CHATEAU MERCIAN'S CAFÉ (4 NOTES)
Shockingly eye-opening tasting experience. I never expected to find Japanese wines of THIS high quality. This flight impressed the hillbilly out of me. Now, Japan is proven to be on track when it comes to producing GREAT wines. Fabulous!
- 2012 Château Mercian Private Reserve Hokushin Chardonnay, 93 Points
Japan, Chūgoku, Yamaguchi
What a pleasant surprise!
Light, light yellow.
Deep-toned and grande fruit-focused young nose, generously kissed by roasted oak.
Grandly concentrated and pure. Deep, wide and high with awesome volume and elegance. There is striking purity galore (!) with a slightly bitter grapefruit aroma on the oaky tail. Brilliant! The rich fruit is well kept in check by the perfect acids and touch of oak. The distinct mineral character is a mix of oilsand and flint.
Immensely refined wine! Would definitely beat most Chards from Burgundy in a blind tasting.
Should live long and become a fabulous barytone with age and also climb several points on the scale.
Tasted and fully enjoyed at Château Mercian.
- 2008 Château Mercian Merlot Signature Kikyogahara, 94 Points
Japan, Chūbu, Yamanashi, Katsunuma
Quite deserving of the recognition it recieved at the 2013 IWSC. A compelling and dramatic wine where already the nose tells you to buckle up!
Red colour.
Fabulous nose of benzin, tar, new soft plastics, dark berries and orange rind. Took me quite a while before I was ready to move on to drinking this nectar...
Rich and GRANDE on the palate. The plentiful aromas ascend from the abyss as well as from the kingdoms above ground. Oily petrochemical aromas, dark berries, restraint and a tannic structure that really needs to rest for quite some time. The tannins are plentiful as in M+++, both fine grained and coarse, creating a refined rustic sense that is most appealing. Acids are M+ and match everything quite well. Extremely long, full bodied, elegant, refined and delicious. Far from "easy drinking" today, but will eventually get there.
GOTT SOM FAN!
For the Mineralii: illuminated lovers of mineral character.
- 2007 Château Mercian Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve Jyonohira, 88 Points
Japan, Chūgoku, Yamaguchi
A rather expressive wine that we guessed was raised over a constant birch wood fire. Very, very smokey, indeed.
Red colour.
Nose of smoke, more smoke and then some.
A sprawling constitution on a smokey foundation. Fruit, M+ acids and M tannins have not found each other yet. And may not ever. This a rustic and quite appealing wine, but you really need to like smoke. And for smoke-lovers, this may very well be heaven on Earth!
I would put my money on more promising btls.
Poor QPR.
- 2007 Château Mercian Merlot Signature Kikyogahara, 97 Points
Japan, Chūbu, Yamanashi, Katsunuma
This is an insanely magnificent wine! A monster of magnificence!
Dark red colour.
Early maturity detected on the nose even if it is mainly tightly shut. With some coaxing, we got oak, caramel, rubber and light touch of smoke.
Superbly balanced wine! Woah! Still rather young with a long and exquisite life ahead. Rich and GRANDE on the palate where the M+ tannins and M++ acids stand erect with stony faces. Not at all an "easy drinking wine", but will eventually get there.
GOTT SOM FAN!
QPR can be discussed as this is 15000 YEN per btl...
FLIGHT 4 - LA VERDURA - LATE LATE DINNER IN YOKOHAMA (1 NOTE)
Delayed, starved and sooo happy for neighbour's restaurant.
And even more happy for having cleared the Chianti phase of our lives now.
Yup! Done
- 2008 Fontodi Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo, 90 Points
Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
Tight Chianti with very little cherries. More like a soldier in 'attention' pose.
Fruit is ... wanting with no complexities. Still young, M+ tannin, M++ acids and M body. Great with anything tomato based. Didn't go with garlic?!?
Should rest some ~10 yrs more. This btl marks the END of our Chianti spree. *sigh of relief*
At new styled Le Verdura (Yokohama).
CLOSING
What a glorious day! Even if the bus home was delayed 3 hrs because of an accident on the highway, we finished the Sunday with big smiles from a fantastic day with kind and passionate people.
...and some outstanding Japanese wines!
